Ruarwe, Usisiya, Kande and Tanzan.... Zambia!

All over Nkhata Bay are A4 sheets of paper telling tourists to go to the Zulunkhini River Lodge in Ruarwe. Not many seem to do so as the only way to get there is via boat, either the Ilala Monday mornings or a commuter boat that takes 9 (if your lucky) hours. This boat is a lot like a far smaller version of the Ilala with it being crammed full of people and STUFF. A bit like this: To the right we have a classic example of suitcases, boxes, bags, crates, everything you can think of under the sun, being crammed into a tiny boat full of (as you can see above/on the left) people! I left Nkhata Bay with a fellow from Chicago named Chris and we were lucky enough to sit right where a sofa was so had a fairly pleasant journey. Chris is also gadget man so he wapped out the laptop and we watched a film, something which the locals LOVED! (Do not judge us until you have had to spend 9 hours on a tiny boat. There's only so much coastline watching one can do without distraction.) I had been told under no circumstances to get this boat as it was long and boring and prone to breaking down, but I thought it was delightful! It stopped at the lakeshore beside gorgeous, untouched-by- tourism beaches with a welcome party greeting the boat each time. It was exactly how all the locals travelled to and from Nkhata Bay; their only nearby town around for HOURS. 

The moon rising is spectacular in Malawi, particularly on a boat rising over the lake. It blazes in all it's full blown moon-like glory and lights up the land and sky so there's no need for torches. We were extremely lucky to have gone to Ruarwe on a weekend when the moon was full. Every night it rose over the lake shining straight onto the private beach and into the open plan restaurant; there is very little in the world which is as impressive.

Upon arriving at Zulunkhuni River Lodge (which as stated above has it's own tiny, pristine spot of sand that the boat docks on) we were greeted by the owned; Charlie. Charlie is awesome. Your experience at this lodge WILL be enhanced by this man alone. He knows how to run a top-notch lodge, he knows the land surrounding his property and how to climb up the waterfall, which places are good for rock jumping, how to walk to the next villages along. All of his staff are from the local village of Ruarwe so give excellent advice and are supremely friendly. For example, as soon as we were off the beach (a 5 second jaunt up some steps) we were offered some incredible rice and chicken to eat. Charlie knows that 9 hours on a boat with just some bread and honey does not cut it. 

The lodge itself is nothing short of mindblowing. There are various bandas and huts on the cliff top overlooking the lake and a massive dorm room which is extremely bright and spacious. The prices are more than you'd find on the normal backpackers route but IT'S JUST SO WORTH IT!! Chris and I shared a massive hut with room for 3 which had the most incredible view of the beach below, waterfalls to the left and village across the water. This isn't just a beach flopping paradise though, there's plenty to do and see. local village walks, long hikes in the hills, waterfall climbing, rock jumping, renting a canoe, volunteering, and so many more which I can't remember. The point is; if you're going to Malawi make sure you come here.

We loved the sound of the waterfall climbing so Charlie took us up the river which runs directly beside the lodge (hence it's name). You need Charlie to guide you as the climb is impossible otherwise. You scramble through tiny holes, cling onto branches, and climb up vertical rock faces (no joke) to get to a larger waterfall at the top. Along the way you jump, dive and slide all over having as much fun as possible, which I definitely did! It was amazing! This escapade can last as long as you want it to (or as long as Charlies free for) and is so worth it. The dog comes too, a great big, lopey dog which runs, swims and climbs along with you! I have far too much love for this place.

The next day with Chris gone I walked to the village of Ruarwe and another fishing village to the right of the lodge. They are extremely tranquil and lovely. Everyone is in awe of the white person and

children don't know whether to run to you to play or be frightened! After a couplea days I knew I had to move on; another Western Union awaited and I had to go upland to Tanzania at some point (however much I didn't want to). I could've waited a day and got the commuter boat again but I had an urge to go to Usisya which was said to be just as beautiful and untouched. I had a strange feeling I had a friend there also who I kept bumping into multiple times during my stay in Malawi. The only way to get there was a 6hour hike or a 3 hour canoe ride. I opted for a canoe ride as I just WANTED one!! It was sweltering and the poor man rowed and rowed for 3 whole hours until we reached Usisya beach; a huge stretch of sand with huts right up the edge. It is the epiphany of a gorgeous beach.The canoe ride was nothing short of wonderful, with stunning shoreline views and the occasional water bucket collection to stop my feet and bag getting wet (of course the boat leaks, this is Malawi).

Usisya Lodge isn't actually open yet, it's still in the process of
being built, BUT it does cater to campers. What is there of the lodge thus far looks impressive and all the locals crowd around to relax with you and just hang out. There's the most incredible, MASSIVE tree in the middle of the beach within the lodge grounds that you sit under and can play pool/beer pong. Of course my faithful friend Graham was there and we had a wild time with the kids in the lake and some rubber ring floaty things; the children LOVE these and they love it even more when you pinch one off them and they have to chase you around in the water! Usisya village is probably the friendliest I have ever come across, and that really is saying something. EVERYONE from the local carpenter making doors on the beach to the priest walking to the water to pray to the elderly ladies sitting beneath a tree making porridge wanted to talk to me. I must've walked about a kilometre (if that) in 2 hours I was stopped so many times! What lovely, wonderful people.

This picture has been stolen from another blog as its the only
one I can find of the truck! Here's the link :)

I knew a lot of my friends in Nkhata Bay were due to leave soon, that and I had 0 camping gear, so I decided to set off from Usisya with one of the workers at the 'lodge' on a truck which left at 2am. Like the boat on the way up I was told DO NOT under ANY CIRCUMSTANCES get this truck as it's notorious for breaking down, crashing, and falling down cliff faces. I figured it was still going so bound to be fine enough and slept a while on the glorious sofas outside under that massive tree. Oh my gosh it was wonderful. I then waited with my new friend beside the dirt track running through the village at 2am for the truck to turn up. It did so around 2:30, beeping its way along the road (which would SEVERELY piss me off if I lived there, it was so loud). I was both pleasantly and unpleasantly surprised by this truck trip. Pleasantly so due to there only being 10 of us on the back of this open truck when I'd been forewarned it could get seriously busy. It also did not rain, was a fairly mild night and the truck neither broke down nor crashed. Unpleasantly so however due to the road being INSANE. 3 hours of ass-hitting-a-wooden-box/floor-of-truck on a ridiculously bumpy road like none I've ever (and hope I never again) experienced before. I've been on bumpy roads, trust me, but this was extreme. The locals somehow managed to sleep... I have absolutely no idea how. I also feared for my life at points. The truck goes up and up and up into the hills away from Usisya beach, which I can imagine being an absolutely stunning view during daylight, then winds its way through the valleys and local villages for the majority of the journey before the last 15minutes when you're on the "main" road. These dirt tracks are not made for an open topped truck of this size and Africans sure do like to drive fast.

Kande beach at night with a storm brewing

Upon arriving in Mzuzu I got the first matatu to Nkhata Bay as it's only an hour away and enjoyed the company at Butterfly Space for a further 2/3 nights. Once again I've written stacks of things that happened in Nkhata Bay but it's all to do with the delightful wonders I met there. Once again, thank you <3

In my own diary words, "here's where it all goes a bit pear shaped". My new bank card was supposedly waiting in Mzuzu (hurrah!) at the Standard Bank and as a last minute Malawi getaway myself, 4 American beauties and a Welsh Gareth went to Kande beach for party times. It ended up being more so the ultimate relaxation on the gorgeous beach in our gorgeous 6 person banda. Kande is reknown for being an overlanders beach and so many who visit Nkhata Bay and want to see 'the real Malawi' scorn it. But it's an overlanders site for a reason because it's so incredibly beautiful. We played frisbee, swam in the perfectly clear waters to islands far further away than first anticipated, dined with the locals in their home... it's the stuff dreams are made of when you dream of paradise. It was a perfect way to say goodbye to some of the best people I've ever met.

Except, I saw them again about a day later every day for about a month...

Nkhata Bay

By some strange force of nature I ended up staying in the Nkhata Bay area for about 2 weeks. It's not only a great base to explore from with a day pack whilst leaving your huge rucksack behind, but the small town also has a fabulous village-esque feel whilst being entirely touristy. 2 main backpacking sights are the reason for this; Mayoka Village and Butterfly Space. I stayed at Butterfly as it's marginally cheaper than Mayoka (and by marginally I mean literally 50p to a pounds worth per night). They are right next to each other and everyone at Mayoka knows everyone at Butterfly and vice versa so it doesn't really matter where you stay. http://www.butterflyspacemalawi.com/

Butterfly Space signage

I arrived in Nkhata Bay with my malaria infected, and seriously grumpy, friend Greg around midnight. We followed signs up a hill (which is slightly hideous and scary at that time of night on a Sunday) then back down a bit until we reached Butterfly. The place didn't look all too thrilling at first in the darkness but when the morning came you saw Butterfly in all its glory. Eco compost loos that look out onto the ocean, an elevated dorm room, a small secluded beach, a sun-catching jetty, palm trees everywhere, a small gorgeous bar, a herb garden, and restaurant/common area/self-catering kitchen. Theres a tree maze, an internet block, youth club, volunteering projects and 'gangsters paradise'. It;s a minature backpackers land!

What makes Butterfly Space and Nkhata Bay so special though is the slow-down-until-you've-stopped-and-are-lying-down relaxed atmosphere. I felt at ease to walk into the kitchen and use appliances alongside the chefs (who are lovely), bathe in the lake (for an actual bath... it's sometimes warmer than the showers), and we all bought our own booze for quiz nights as it's cheaper than buying from the bar. Countless times I left my bags in the dorm room and didn't pay for a bed whilst travelling about for 4 days at a time - it's just the ultimate atmosphere you want to be in on holiday.

Cute Nkhata Bay local restaurant

Nkhata Bay itself sways to the rhythm of the palm trees and the lake, an almost Caribbean vibe (much like Cape Maclear) but far more 'real malawi'. It's got everything you could want (except a definitely-going-to-work bank and shampoo). There are various markets throughout the week, fabric shops, curios, the luxury of a proper supermarket, beautiful local restaurants for local and international food, a diving centre, Internet cafes galore.... no wonder people get stuck there!!

I planned to stay only a few days before heading to Ruarwe, Livingstonia and then Tanzania. Unfortunately things entirely out of my control occurred putting an end to that particular plan of action, firstly my purse got stolen with all my money and cards in it. Secondly, the people stayed at Butterfly Space were to become some fabulous new friends and the best of my trip. Onto the first, purse stealage. It wasn't anyones fault but my own as I left my bag wide open at the fish market whilst taking a photo of fish. This is the photo --------------------------------> It's not even worth it. Anyway, Greg stayed an extra day showing me to Western Union (life saver) and then all was well again after a gazillion beers and a game of pool on a table which, rightly according to Greg, was 'more crooked than the leaning tower of pisa'. Just a small tip for future travellers to Malawi; if anything ever gets stolen, DON'T GO TO THE POLICE. I thought it'd be good to inform them just in case the purse was handed in (I hadn't been in Africa for long, give me a break) and I was popped in a delightful cagey-like room where the walls were pasted with Malawis' most wanted. If there's one way to freak you out about a country it's that!

Chikale Beach

ANYWAY! I decided to stay in Nkhata Bay a few days not doing altogether too much after the purse fiasco as, afterall, I WAS on holiday. Although Butterfly has it's own private beach it's a tad rocky for just a quick dip so I walked the 10minutes away from town to Chikale Beach. Perfection. A small, entirely sandy beach with thatched umbrellas for shade and a small bar to grab a drink from. Bliss. There is also another beach by Butterfly that none of the tourists really go to as it's also rocky and full of local kids, but I LOVED. The reason for this being that I met two fabulous local lads who played guitar! They were amazing! They sat on the rocks by the sea jamming until sundown, banging out tunes and verses on the spot, encouraging me to join in.

A hop, skip, scramble over some rocks and you're at a local beach

Onto the second, more fun reason, as to why I stayed in Nkhata Bay, you soon begin to realise every white settler in the central and north province know eachother, and they are all wonderful. All the owners of lodges and backpackers, restaurants and bars, they all know eachother and meet up for drinks etc regularly. If you're backpacking around Malawi for more than two weeks you will ultimately end up knowing all these people and LOVING them. Similarly with the locals; there are tons of beach boys, tailors, curio sellers and washer women in Nkhata Bay who know your name after a measly 3 or 4 days of being there. They always say hello and always want to play a "quick" game of Bawo or have a "quick" drink with you.

Butterfly's beach

There was also a very, very special set of people I met at Butterfly Space. I've just sat here and written all their names but there are simply too many! They know who they are, those people I went for long village walks with, the ones whose beds I jumped on, the ones who made me cry with laughter, the ones who watched sunrises with me and went on fantastically dodgey nights out. The ones I met only at Butterfly and the others I kept meeting time, and time again throughout my journey in Malawi and further afield. You guys gave me the bestest memories of my trip and I am forever thankful you amazing, crazy, mad, incredible people.

A local tailor hemming my kitenge

If I wasn't writing this 7 months down the line I'd probably be telling you all about that time I watched the sunrise whilst swimming in the lake and the dog stole my shoe, or when Steve wrote a quiz that Zoe and I were abysmal at and yet still managed to come 4th, or the countless nights out in Mayoka and town where we ate like kings at the buffet and drank like champions before being gyrated on by small boys in the local bar. In fact, just flicking through my diary I have so many stories about Nkhata Bay I'm pretty sure I could write a blog dedicated just to that small town!

But I wont. I'll move onto Ruarwe and Kandy.

Journeying on the Ilala

Note: 

This post contains a lot of photos of incredible sunsets/rises that will make you want to go on holiday immediately, predominantly to Malawi (something I would highly recommend doing asap).

The Ilala. http://www.malawitourism.com/pages/news/index.asp?NewsID=316. 

The easiest and quickest way to get up the country via the lake shore. She has 4 classes of travel; economy, second, first and cabin. Economy is fine enough for short journeys, just a bunch of plastic seats on the bottom floor full of people and STUFF. Like fish and chickens and furniture and booze and just loads and loads of STUFF. Second class is less full of this stuff and more full of people having a nap on the equally as uncomfortable benches. First class you have access to the small (and quite expensive by Malawi standards) restaurant, bar and top deck, and cabin you have your own small cabin area. Cabin class is ridiculously expensive and just not worth it. First class is the way to go (which is what I did).

I travelled on the Ilala from Monkey Bay where it departs at 10am Saturday mornings, (or did 7 months ago, don't quote me on that), to Nkhata Bay, where it arrives around 11pm Sunday evening. 

Lets start with Monkey Bay; gem of a place. Gorgeous backpackers right on the water called Mufasa, a bit more expensive than the usual as there are no dorm rooms, but it really is just STUNNING. You have your own private beach area, can cook your own food and camp if you want, the decor is really funky and welcoming, and the small town of Monkey Bay is fine enough for supplies (NOT doctors. The doctors is a small hut, you do not want Malaria here!). If I had more time I would've stayed a while longer.

There are hammocks on the beach and seats so high off the ground hung on trees you have to jump in them and can kick off the trunk to swing. Easy-to-climb rocks right next to the beach, a small mountain behind the town to explore, tiny fishermen boats floating at night with their lanterns - ahhhhhh it's my kinda place. So, so beautiful.

Monkey Bay sunset over the mountains of Cape Maclear

So, on the Ilala I went Saturday morning with my Malaria infected pal Greg (hence the knowledge of Monkey Bay clinics... don't go there). First class tickets to Nkhata Bay bought, up to top deck we climbed, and we are rewarded with a departing view of ladies washing their clothes by the lakeshore, naked children playing in the water, and a bunch of brightly coloured boats bobbing up and down with the most obscure names! 'Road Hell 2", "Jesus is my lover" and "bitches be crazy for my boat" to name just a few. The Ilala is not a grand boat. In fact, in my diary I've referred to it as "a bit of a dive". It's not a boat specifically made for tourists, it's a commuter boat; an easier way of getting goods from one end of the lake to the other, specifically to Likoma Island.

The only beds on the Ilala are in the cabins, everyone else sleeps on seats, the floor, or anything they can find space on. A whole lotta locals slept on huge bags of tiny fish being transported to Nkhata Bay which stank. A lot. Luckily for me first class is 2 decks above these

Greg helping Graham erect his bed for the night

stinky beasts. First class held a bar and restaurant, which you have no choice but to eat in unless you bring enough snacks and food that do not need cooking and will last your entire trip. In saying that, it was still only about £2 for a dish and they were amazing. Good cheffing from the Ilala kitchen team. You are also okay to bring your own drink on board, but in first class there are some points during the day when it's unbearably hot, meaning the shaded areas are taken over by bodies, not bags, so your drinks will be a bit nasty by the time you get round to drinking them all.

My bed for the night. Sleeping on the crate didn't last
long, it's much for comfortable on the floor (which
has to be saying something!)

As you can see by this photo, my bed was my soon-to-be Kilimanjaro sleeping bag and liner with a kitenge** acting as a pillow. The floor was a lot comfier than the crate and I had a surprising good night, made all the better by the thousands of stars above me.

Getting off the Ilala, casual bucket being passed
over everyones heads

There are 2 main reasons to love a journey on the Ilala, the first being the destination stops. At each stop passengers are allowed to disembark and chill out on the mainland until the REALLY LOUD horn blows to signal the Ilala is ready to leave. You are transported from the boat to land via small wooden lifeboats. This is a slightly traumatic experience and yet incredibly fun. There is no such thing as queueing in Malawi so you have to push to get on the lifeboat. This is a tad precarious given they are already lowered into the water and you climb down a vertical ladder to get to them, so a shove could send you flying over the edge. The Ilala is not disabled friendly in the slightest. The 'lifeboats' are filled STUFF, before being filled with more STUFF and someones baby and a few chickens and a bag of fish. They can then, and only then, when they are overfilled to the point of insanity, move slowly towards the shore where a mass congregation of people are waiting to claim their fair share of the stuff. Of course there are no actual docks in Malawi (apart from at Monkey Bay which is pure luxury) and so you have to wade a fair bit upon getting off the lifeboat (which is actually wonderful given your so squashed a few seconds before). Wading is particularly hard with a large rucksack on and yet extremely fulfilling when you manage to get onto dry land without getting your main bag AND day sack wet. This was particularly hard at Nkhata Bay at 11pm at night.

I explored Likoma Island a little with another traveller; it is gorgeous. There's not altogether too much to do considering it's an island with one village, but it's perfect for the ultimate relaxing, honeymoon-esque beachy time.

Now, onto why I REALLY love the Ilala.

Sun setting over Likoma Island

A sun fully risen over Mozambique and sun setting in a storm

Sunrise. No picture edits. No filters, no nothing. This is actually how it is.

The sun in Africa is incredible. I have a real thing for sunsets and rises and was rewarded to the extreme during my time in Malawi particularly. They are so full and so amazingly beautiful! Obviously travelling on the Ilala during the dry season helps a lot with the 'capturing-the-gorgeous-sunset' stuff, but I'm pretty sure you'd get incredible photos whatever the time of year. Although sleeping in first class in the rain would suck...






Right, I'm pretty sure not everyone cares about my sunset addiction so enough twaddle about the sun; I'm now in Nkhata Bay. Time to let everyone know why this really is the best spot for backpackers on the lake.



** A kitenge is a brightly coloured wrap-around  African material ladies get tailored into skirts, tops, trousers, hats, bags, and anything you can possibly think of. Kitenges' are the main dress for women and look absolutely fabulous. There are so many different patterns to choose from and ways to wear it, it'd be a miracle to find someone wearing the same kitenge as you!