Livingstone and the mighty Victoria Falls

Firstly, nothing I say in this post will live up to my time spent in Livingstone. Secondly, it is for this reason alone that you should go and see Victoria Falls for yourself. Thirdly, if that doesn't tempt you, this picture should;

That's me just chilling on Victoria falls during dry season. When it rains there'll be 500 million litres of water pouring over that very spot every minute. And you could look far more attractive if you wanted to than the current model with her eyes closed and slicked back hair.

Starting from leaving Kasanka, we all (including the peacecore troops) left the park early in the morning to try and hitch hike to Lusaka. One of our team managed it, the other 6 were stuck. Luckily the peacecorers had ordered some taxis so we sqeeeeezed all of us and our luggage in a 4/5seater and drove to the nearest bus station, about 30km away. I'm pretty sure this is the only taxi I picked up during my time in Africa and it could be that this journey put me off for life. An uncomfortable hour of sitting half on a seat half on the taxi floor with my legs, arms and butt crushed. Luckily I was not alone in my pain as I was sharing my personal space with Tess who was in exactly the same predicament! I'm pretty sure everyone in that taxi was excited to get out of it as soon as they got in!

We then paid an extortionate amount for a minibus heading to Lusaka and when we finally got there (after stopping just about everywhere, including the roadside to pick up some rather exotic looking mushrooms) we were still taken to the wrong bus station. A kind local with a bus took pity on us and gave us a lift to our destination where we fought tooth and nail to get overnight bus tickets to Livingstone without paying the ridiculous (and entirely made-up-out-of-thin-air

tourist fee) bag charge. An hour later, WE WERE ON OUR WAY! It was a hastle of a day, 19hours of journeying and a suspension free bus journey BUT so worth it to rock up to Livingstone around 3am and have a kip on the bus before heading to a hostel.


We stayed at Livingstone Backpackers over the more popular Jollyboys. I think it was a bit cheaper. Both are lovely but we had a blast at Livingstone with its beach-esque bar, open plan kitchen, swimming pool and funky decor. The town again was more western than anything in Malawi but more African than Lusaka; the perfect mix for an easy backpacking life. The towns 9km away from the Zambia-Zimbabwe border and Vic Falls so you have to get a minibus for about 5 minutes before walking a few hundred yards to the main attraction. For some reason we didn't do this on our very first day! I'm pretty sure we were exhausted and wanted to see what we could do and get for our money. The backpackers all offer trips, guides, activities etc but they are expensive and you can go to a local for a better price! So our first

trip to the Falls was via The Royal Livingstone Hotel where we sat like kings and queens on the terrace overlooking the mighty Zambezi river in all its Hippo ridden glory, drinking cocktails and staring at Zebras until the sun started to set. Safe to say, this hotel is gorgeous. It has Zebras in the grounds for gods sake! Absolute love!!

A short walk along the river and we were at the Falls entrance. Could not see a thing. It's obviously built that way so you have to pay the entrance fee.I'm not entirely sure what that is as we didn't go in that day and when we did it was with a guide who managed to sneak us past the pay desk (entirely possible if you use local guides and kick up a fuss about the price. Both you and they know it's ridiculously extortionate). Instead we walked across the border from Zambia-Zimbabwe. The border is a bridge over The Zambezi River where the bungee jump is. That looked terrifyingly unsafe. Needless to say, I did not rise up the challenge. My friend Zoe did though and she said it was AMAZING. The bridge gave crazy beautiful views of the gorge where people white water

raft and you are constantly surrounded by baboons! These monkeys are NOT afraid of you, they are terrifyingly big and will not hesitate to jump you for some food! In my diary I start by saying how "super cute" the baboons are with "tiny baby baboons riding on the backs of the bigger ones, and these monkeys were HUGE, mighty things! So much monkey love today!". By the end of my stay in Livingstone I'm writing "oh. my. god. Them sodding monkeys! They so big and scary! I couldn't take food across the border due to pure FEAR!! So I let Chris do it instead.".

After a quick Go Pro parachute test over the bridge (a Chris invention to get the best footage at Devils Pool when he throws the camera off Vic Falls) and we were back in the backpackers where I found fellow Malawi friends from Nkhata Bay! One of the best things about travelling Africa; there is a solid backpacking route which everyone follows, but 'everyone' still isn't that many people! Tourists are not in abundance but friends throughout your trip are <3

walking over the river

Jumping over rocks

The next few days are more than incredible. They are quite definitely in my lifes top 10 of  incredibleness. Outside the Victoria Falls entrance and thousands of curio shops my American friends and I searched for a local guide who would take us to Devils Pool for a discount. Before I go any further, read about what Devils Pool is here; because it's awesome (the pool, NOT the video on that website. That's crap).

swimming across the river!

We found Herald who took us on a riverbed walk alongside the falls to Livingstone Island (Zambians are extremely inventive when it comes to naming things). We were actually walking ON, OVER AND IN the Zambezi! After this short jaunt just chilling on rocks with our legs dangling over the falls, we arrived at the tiny island where we were instructed to get in our swimming gear so we could swim the short distance to the Main Waterfall and pool. So we stripped off and jumped INTO the Zambezi for a swim. No biggy,
just swimming in this massive river RIGHT NEXT TO the biggest waterfall in the world. Scrambling up some rocks we had a small sit before Herald jumped right on into the pool, roughly a metre away from the edge of the falls. We all followed a little more cautiously sliding into this incredible pool before sitting on a ledge just half a metre or so away from the waterfall. Words aren't doing this any justice.

Sliding into the pool

Sitting in the pool

Just chillin over the largest waterfall in the world.

We was told to lean over the edge of the falls whilst a guide held our ankles. It doesn't look like much in that photo but MY GOD. My entire torso was over the waterfall and I did indeed scream like a girl, proudly. We all did this twice. And would've stayed for longer if a family of about 30 weren't starting to queue behind us.

A walk back along the riverbed (still can't quite believe how cool that is) and we were left to wander the park at our own leisure. We saw the falls in all their full rain glory (in photo form) and were able to walk over bridges and onto plinths to see the different waterfalls that make up the larger falls (I believe there are 10-12 in all...).

The next day came as something of a surprise. I decided to jump on board (literally) with a few of our group going white water rafting. They'd all done it before, I hadn't, I was cacking my pants (literally) and it was awesome. Note to everyone, prices can be cut by serious bargaining (excellent work Tess and Gonzalo). It's a full day thing so we were in the water by 8:30am after the shortest safety briefing EVER where we were told to paddle and hold on when told. Safety procedures and Africa just don't mix. Thats what makes it so much more exciting! After a quick swim in a large pool under Vic Falls, next to the first rapid 25m away, we got in the raft to kick some ass. I had NO IDEA what I was doing and paddled far too little but held on a lot. I cannot stress how much fun this was! I've described the experience as being "1) awesome, 2.) painful, 3.) incredible, 4.) dangerous. I've not laughed so hard in a long time". We all fell out and overturned our raft twice, once I got a nosebleed and at one point we had to evacuate the river as a rapid was too extreme! Lunch and snacks are included and the general experience was incredible. We jumped off rocks, swam through rapids, got sucked under the water, drifted along the at times serene river, and all the time were filmed by a crew. We paid extra for these photos and film. It was just too good. More than once we saw crocs/allies in the river that we were SWIMMING IN! The guides paid absolutely no attention and just didn't see any danger, it was fabulous!

Our guides legs, falling in, the only one at first!

Overturning raft!!

TEAM!

The moment our anchor let us down...!

These were by far the FUNNIEST photos! This guy knew where those cameras would be!

Just tried to upload the video but it says I can't.... ALL THE SAME, amazing. Thank you Livingstone, thank you Victoria Falls. I wont be forgetting you anytime soon. Ever.

Upon entering Zambia...

Credit for most of the photos from here on until I leave South Africa definitely go to Mr Christopher Pitcher, whose website you can see here :) He's done a whole lotta travelling, has a whole lotta projects under his belt and is an incredible photographer so I recommend just checking him out!

Starting where I finished in my last post, what happened was my card, which was 'definitely in Mzuzu' according to UK card services, was actually not. More like it was still in England with no hope of ever getting to Africa as "UK card services don't post to PO BOX addresses". Well.. good luck ever posting to Africa EVER then! A minibus journey with the door falling off, 3 milkshakes, a severely pissed off Izzi and a phone-call later, I had decided to go to Zambia, Zimbabwe and South Africa with my new found American friends from Nkhata Bay. So I was going exactly the opposite way that I was meant to be.

Mzuzu is a standard Malawi town. Lilongwe is a larger one. Neither have much in the way of stuff to do and see and do. The small north province of Malawi served me well as I met by chance with 2 fellow travellers before leaving Mzuzu and another from Nkhata Bay on the bus to Lilongwe. The bus was PACKED. It was the first proper bus I had travelled on since arriving in Africa and there is very little difference in the way of space, comfort, safety in comparison to the tiny minibuses that go everywhere. We only stopped about 3 times; once to let passengers on and off, another to check what the loud bang was at the back of the bus, a third half an hour later to change the tyre which had blown out and shredded. My last moments in Malawi were spent in a bog-standard city type backpackers in the midst of a thunderstorm. I don't care, I have nothing but fond memories and would encourage anyone whose even slightly considering going there to just go. Now.

GO!

Anyway

Zambia

Westernised shopping mall

A country of animals and safari. We got the bus from Lilongwe to Lusaka at 5am which took roughly 13 hours. I was talking to someone about getting a bus to Plymouth the other day which takes 6 hours and they grimaced. I'd very much just like to clarify that 13 hours on a bus really isn't that bad! All you do is sit, and relax, and sit, and not do anything, listen to music, read, do suduku, sit; whats so bad about that! Especially if you're on a night bus. I've heard the worst things about night buses and yet never experienced anything but a wonderful, albeit sometimes interrupted, very cheap nights sleep. All the same, the journey was glorious zooming away on fully tarmacked roads through stunning countryside over the Malawi/Zambia border (extremely fast and easy), over the mighty Zambezi river, past tiny huts made of mud and straw, and huge herds of cattle. Unsurprisingly Zambia looks a whole lot like Malawi. Until you get to Lusaka.

Lusaka is Westernised. The city has things one can only dream of in Africa such as street lights, shops you can walk into and working traffic lights. Not only that but there are huge shopping malls, the kind I've only before seen on American TV programs. There was a proper cinema, real supermarkets and restaurants that require real customer service, people wore clothes which showed both shoulders AND knees; I almost went into cardiac arrest! The backpackers we stayed at had a swimming pool and everything! For $10 a night I certainly expected one, Zambia is far more expensive than Malawi where you can get a bed for less than £3. And just a warning for anyone travelling in the same direction as I; Malawian Kwacha is a CLOSED CURRENCY. It cannot be changed anywhere apart from in Malawi, and the border gives shite rates.

The first thing we did in Zambia (apart from exploring Lusaka) was to go to Eureka Camp, 13km outside of the city centre. This is a camp WITHIN a small wildlife sanctuary. You can get within one metre of zebras, Buffalo and gazelle (depending how stealthy you are) and see giraffes from at least 5 metres away. Absolutely incredible. This was my first sighting of Safari animals and I was far too excited and went absolutely rogue. I spent hours upon hours walking around the tiny park hunting wildlife and just doing nothing with them. You sit, they sit. Amazing. There's also a dog which is slightly disabled and the cutest thing ever. Pretty sure I'd have been happy with just the dog let alone all the other wildlife.





The camp itself is gorgeous. Huge grounds for overlanders, small bandas and a dorm for those wanting cheap (although they aren't actually very cheap at all) and larger bandas for groups. We managed to squeeze 5 of us in a 3 bed; thrifty. Theres a swimming pool, a bar, self catering kitchen, volleyball court, BBQ areas, TV room, pool playing area AND functional flush toilets. And real showers. It's backpackers/overlanders paradise once again in Africa! What makes it THAT much better though is locals are more than welcome too. Not like the local beach boys in Malawi but local families who can afford the luxury.

Giraffe at sunset

Our next stop in Zambia was to Kasanka Trust National Park to watch the largest bat migration in the world, also the second largest migration of any mammal.

Whilst in Lusaka Backpackers we'd not only met a couple The Americans knew from previous countries travelled but also a lovely South African chap called Bastian who convinced us to go to his workplace to see this epic spectacle. This is the only park in Africa (I believe) to hold the elusive Sitatunga, a species of antelope (this is all by memory. The website offers far more information!).

Camping out next to the park entrance

Our new group of 7 people left Lusaka at 3pm and bussed it through the country to parks entrance which we arrived at around midnight. Of course the park is closed at this time so after a scramble out the VERY FULL bus with all of our food and camping gear ready for 4 nights, we set up camp outside the park gate beside the road. We all woke relatively early and waited for Bastian at the park entrance when about 8-10 peacecore volunteers rocked on up. They were join us on the tour. The more the merrier! We all had a sit in the glorious sunshine until Bastian showed up around 11am to drive us into the park to the campsite area in opentopped 4x4s.

We considered driving through the park to be akin to a disneyland ride (much to American Bens utter disgust). Branches hung low which you had to either duck or be slapped by, the road was actually a

Kasanka waterboys

dirt track which was bump-bump-bumpy, and after a wonderful pizza lunch beside some hippos the heavens full on opened as we drove through the plains. Everyone and thing looked like they'd just stepped out of a fully-clothed shower they'd taken with their bags on upon arrival at camp. I'm talking about some SERIOUS rain storm! Thunder and lightning; the whole works. Camp was a space of flat ground under some trees with a small veranda, bucket shower at the ready and actual flush toilet! That afternoon we were treated to a short walk along the river and wetlands (in the rainy season the river must be at least a mile across!) The park is gorgeous, full of various species of antelope and beautiful birds. Bastian knew all of them and was a fabulous guide. That night was our first taster of the bat viewing as we watched millions of bats pass over our heads bit by bit.

The next day, after another EPIC night-time storm, we woke
at around 4/5am to go for a morning safari. The sun rise was a brilliant orange over the plains and the park full of morning fog. It was wonderful to be away from city life somewhere so ultimately tranquil. The safari was a walking one around the forest, river and marshy areas. We saw MASSIVE angry hippos lazing about and huge groups of various antelope on the plains. Kasanka isn't about checking off the Big 5, neither is it too big on other animals like giraffes, zebras etc; it's the bats that make it famous. But I think it is a fabulous park. The landscapes are versatile and the tourists are almost non-existent except for yourself. No queues here looking for a lion. That morning we also climbed an extremely dodgey looking ladder up a huge tree to overlook the wetlands and plains. The views are nothing short of incredible and the experience of getting up and down a tad nervy.

That evening it was real-time-bat-time and we went back to the tree ladder (but not up it) to see the bats rise from their nesting places ready to eat their fruit (which tastes horrific. Instant hangover dry mouth when juice touches tongue). It was nothing short of... wow. They look tiny from the ground but they actually have roughly a metre wide wingspan. The sun glowed orange as it set and the bats took flight in their millions. We all took photo after photo after photo until we realised photos couldn't possibly do this any justice so we best sit and enjoy the spectacle. And what a spectacle.

It really was just incredible.

The drive home was just as exciting ducking and diving branches in the dark, seeing all sorts of animals from jackals to elephant shrews to hippos running with their children (incredibly fast and incredibly cute). Our second to last evening in the park we were treated to a wonderful BBQ and slept like babies after a long, fabulous day. Similarly, our last day in the park we were treated to a

wonderful safari drive as a new group had turned up to join us. There were now so many of us 3 had to stand in the open topped 4x4s and duck even more so as to not be hit by the low hanging branches! Now it really WAS a disneyland ride and it was great fun! Not much was to be seen that afternoon in terms of animals apart from a lazy croc and a bunch of antelope, but the landscape of Kasanka is just beautiful and the weather was equally so.

The last evening came far too fast for my liking and we were off for our last bat viewing, this time at a different place in the park; a lot closer. All 30+ of us crashed through the undergrowth to get to the viewing point, the poor bats must've been scared shitless as they went a bit wild just as we arrived. It was incredible. I know I've used that word alot but there are just SO MANY OF THEM! We were so close this time they flew right over our heads a little closer to the ground, again at sunset. There were 3 viewing points all of which pointed at the bats tree homes and all of which gave fantastic views of the mammals rising out in their millions. I cannot stress enough how amazing this is and how it's well worth the trip. SO MUCH cheaper than any other safari option, so much more off the beaten tourist track and such an incredible guide and team. 

There was a definite feeling of "wow, this is a once in a lifetime thing to see".