Nkhata Bay

By some strange force of nature I ended up staying in the Nkhata Bay area for about 2 weeks. It's not only a great base to explore from with a day pack whilst leaving your huge rucksack behind, but the small town also has a fabulous village-esque feel whilst being entirely touristy. 2 main backpacking sights are the reason for this; Mayoka Village and Butterfly Space. I stayed at Butterfly as it's marginally cheaper than Mayoka (and by marginally I mean literally 50p to a pounds worth per night). They are right next to each other and everyone at Mayoka knows everyone at Butterfly and vice versa so it doesn't really matter where you stay. http://www.butterflyspacemalawi.com/

Butterfly Space signage

I arrived in Nkhata Bay with my malaria infected, and seriously grumpy, friend Greg around midnight. We followed signs up a hill (which is slightly hideous and scary at that time of night on a Sunday) then back down a bit until we reached Butterfly. The place didn't look all too thrilling at first in the darkness but when the morning came you saw Butterfly in all its glory. Eco compost loos that look out onto the ocean, an elevated dorm room, a small secluded beach, a sun-catching jetty, palm trees everywhere, a small gorgeous bar, a herb garden, and restaurant/common area/self-catering kitchen. Theres a tree maze, an internet block, youth club, volunteering projects and 'gangsters paradise'. It;s a minature backpackers land!

What makes Butterfly Space and Nkhata Bay so special though is the slow-down-until-you've-stopped-and-are-lying-down relaxed atmosphere. I felt at ease to walk into the kitchen and use appliances alongside the chefs (who are lovely), bathe in the lake (for an actual bath... it's sometimes warmer than the showers), and we all bought our own booze for quiz nights as it's cheaper than buying from the bar. Countless times I left my bags in the dorm room and didn't pay for a bed whilst travelling about for 4 days at a time - it's just the ultimate atmosphere you want to be in on holiday.

Cute Nkhata Bay local restaurant

Nkhata Bay itself sways to the rhythm of the palm trees and the lake, an almost Caribbean vibe (much like Cape Maclear) but far more 'real malawi'. It's got everything you could want (except a definitely-going-to-work bank and shampoo). There are various markets throughout the week, fabric shops, curios, the luxury of a proper supermarket, beautiful local restaurants for local and international food, a diving centre, Internet cafes galore.... no wonder people get stuck there!!

I planned to stay only a few days before heading to Ruarwe, Livingstonia and then Tanzania. Unfortunately things entirely out of my control occurred putting an end to that particular plan of action, firstly my purse got stolen with all my money and cards in it. Secondly, the people stayed at Butterfly Space were to become some fabulous new friends and the best of my trip. Onto the first, purse stealage. It wasn't anyones fault but my own as I left my bag wide open at the fish market whilst taking a photo of fish. This is the photo --------------------------------> It's not even worth it. Anyway, Greg stayed an extra day showing me to Western Union (life saver) and then all was well again after a gazillion beers and a game of pool on a table which, rightly according to Greg, was 'more crooked than the leaning tower of pisa'. Just a small tip for future travellers to Malawi; if anything ever gets stolen, DON'T GO TO THE POLICE. I thought it'd be good to inform them just in case the purse was handed in (I hadn't been in Africa for long, give me a break) and I was popped in a delightful cagey-like room where the walls were pasted with Malawis' most wanted. If there's one way to freak you out about a country it's that!

Chikale Beach

ANYWAY! I decided to stay in Nkhata Bay a few days not doing altogether too much after the purse fiasco as, afterall, I WAS on holiday. Although Butterfly has it's own private beach it's a tad rocky for just a quick dip so I walked the 10minutes away from town to Chikale Beach. Perfection. A small, entirely sandy beach with thatched umbrellas for shade and a small bar to grab a drink from. Bliss. There is also another beach by Butterfly that none of the tourists really go to as it's also rocky and full of local kids, but I LOVED. The reason for this being that I met two fabulous local lads who played guitar! They were amazing! They sat on the rocks by the sea jamming until sundown, banging out tunes and verses on the spot, encouraging me to join in.

A hop, skip, scramble over some rocks and you're at a local beach

Onto the second, more fun reason, as to why I stayed in Nkhata Bay, you soon begin to realise every white settler in the central and north province know eachother, and they are all wonderful. All the owners of lodges and backpackers, restaurants and bars, they all know eachother and meet up for drinks etc regularly. If you're backpacking around Malawi for more than two weeks you will ultimately end up knowing all these people and LOVING them. Similarly with the locals; there are tons of beach boys, tailors, curio sellers and washer women in Nkhata Bay who know your name after a measly 3 or 4 days of being there. They always say hello and always want to play a "quick" game of Bawo or have a "quick" drink with you.

Butterfly's beach

There was also a very, very special set of people I met at Butterfly Space. I've just sat here and written all their names but there are simply too many! They know who they are, those people I went for long village walks with, the ones whose beds I jumped on, the ones who made me cry with laughter, the ones who watched sunrises with me and went on fantastically dodgey nights out. The ones I met only at Butterfly and the others I kept meeting time, and time again throughout my journey in Malawi and further afield. You guys gave me the bestest memories of my trip and I am forever thankful you amazing, crazy, mad, incredible people.

A local tailor hemming my kitenge

If I wasn't writing this 7 months down the line I'd probably be telling you all about that time I watched the sunrise whilst swimming in the lake and the dog stole my shoe, or when Steve wrote a quiz that Zoe and I were abysmal at and yet still managed to come 4th, or the countless nights out in Mayoka and town where we ate like kings at the buffet and drank like champions before being gyrated on by small boys in the local bar. In fact, just flicking through my diary I have so many stories about Nkhata Bay I'm pretty sure I could write a blog dedicated just to that small town!

But I wont. I'll move onto Ruarwe and Kandy.