Ruarwe, Usisiya, Kande and Tanzan.... Zambia!

All over Nkhata Bay are A4 sheets of paper telling tourists to go to the Zulunkhini River Lodge in Ruarwe. Not many seem to do so as the only way to get there is via boat, either the Ilala Monday mornings or a commuter boat that takes 9 (if your lucky) hours. This boat is a lot like a far smaller version of the Ilala with it being crammed full of people and STUFF. A bit like this: To the right we have a classic example of suitcases, boxes, bags, crates, everything you can think of under the sun, being crammed into a tiny boat full of (as you can see above/on the left) people! I left Nkhata Bay with a fellow from Chicago named Chris and we were lucky enough to sit right where a sofa was so had a fairly pleasant journey. Chris is also gadget man so he wapped out the laptop and we watched a film, something which the locals LOVED! (Do not judge us until you have had to spend 9 hours on a tiny boat. There's only so much coastline watching one can do without distraction.) I had been told under no circumstances to get this boat as it was long and boring and prone to breaking down, but I thought it was delightful! It stopped at the lakeshore beside gorgeous, untouched-by- tourism beaches with a welcome party greeting the boat each time. It was exactly how all the locals travelled to and from Nkhata Bay; their only nearby town around for HOURS. 

The moon rising is spectacular in Malawi, particularly on a boat rising over the lake. It blazes in all it's full blown moon-like glory and lights up the land and sky so there's no need for torches. We were extremely lucky to have gone to Ruarwe on a weekend when the moon was full. Every night it rose over the lake shining straight onto the private beach and into the open plan restaurant; there is very little in the world which is as impressive.

Upon arriving at Zulunkhuni River Lodge (which as stated above has it's own tiny, pristine spot of sand that the boat docks on) we were greeted by the owned; Charlie. Charlie is awesome. Your experience at this lodge WILL be enhanced by this man alone. He knows how to run a top-notch lodge, he knows the land surrounding his property and how to climb up the waterfall, which places are good for rock jumping, how to walk to the next villages along. All of his staff are from the local village of Ruarwe so give excellent advice and are supremely friendly. For example, as soon as we were off the beach (a 5 second jaunt up some steps) we were offered some incredible rice and chicken to eat. Charlie knows that 9 hours on a boat with just some bread and honey does not cut it. 

The lodge itself is nothing short of mindblowing. There are various bandas and huts on the cliff top overlooking the lake and a massive dorm room which is extremely bright and spacious. The prices are more than you'd find on the normal backpackers route but IT'S JUST SO WORTH IT!! Chris and I shared a massive hut with room for 3 which had the most incredible view of the beach below, waterfalls to the left and village across the water. This isn't just a beach flopping paradise though, there's plenty to do and see. local village walks, long hikes in the hills, waterfall climbing, rock jumping, renting a canoe, volunteering, and so many more which I can't remember. The point is; if you're going to Malawi make sure you come here.

We loved the sound of the waterfall climbing so Charlie took us up the river which runs directly beside the lodge (hence it's name). You need Charlie to guide you as the climb is impossible otherwise. You scramble through tiny holes, cling onto branches, and climb up vertical rock faces (no joke) to get to a larger waterfall at the top. Along the way you jump, dive and slide all over having as much fun as possible, which I definitely did! It was amazing! This escapade can last as long as you want it to (or as long as Charlies free for) and is so worth it. The dog comes too, a great big, lopey dog which runs, swims and climbs along with you! I have far too much love for this place.

The next day with Chris gone I walked to the village of Ruarwe and another fishing village to the right of the lodge. They are extremely tranquil and lovely. Everyone is in awe of the white person and

children don't know whether to run to you to play or be frightened! After a couplea days I knew I had to move on; another Western Union awaited and I had to go upland to Tanzania at some point (however much I didn't want to). I could've waited a day and got the commuter boat again but I had an urge to go to Usisya which was said to be just as beautiful and untouched. I had a strange feeling I had a friend there also who I kept bumping into multiple times during my stay in Malawi. The only way to get there was a 6hour hike or a 3 hour canoe ride. I opted for a canoe ride as I just WANTED one!! It was sweltering and the poor man rowed and rowed for 3 whole hours until we reached Usisya beach; a huge stretch of sand with huts right up the edge. It is the epiphany of a gorgeous beach.The canoe ride was nothing short of wonderful, with stunning shoreline views and the occasional water bucket collection to stop my feet and bag getting wet (of course the boat leaks, this is Malawi).

Usisya Lodge isn't actually open yet, it's still in the process of
being built, BUT it does cater to campers. What is there of the lodge thus far looks impressive and all the locals crowd around to relax with you and just hang out. There's the most incredible, MASSIVE tree in the middle of the beach within the lodge grounds that you sit under and can play pool/beer pong. Of course my faithful friend Graham was there and we had a wild time with the kids in the lake and some rubber ring floaty things; the children LOVE these and they love it even more when you pinch one off them and they have to chase you around in the water! Usisya village is probably the friendliest I have ever come across, and that really is saying something. EVERYONE from the local carpenter making doors on the beach to the priest walking to the water to pray to the elderly ladies sitting beneath a tree making porridge wanted to talk to me. I must've walked about a kilometre (if that) in 2 hours I was stopped so many times! What lovely, wonderful people.

This picture has been stolen from another blog as its the only
one I can find of the truck! Here's the link :)

I knew a lot of my friends in Nkhata Bay were due to leave soon, that and I had 0 camping gear, so I decided to set off from Usisya with one of the workers at the 'lodge' on a truck which left at 2am. Like the boat on the way up I was told DO NOT under ANY CIRCUMSTANCES get this truck as it's notorious for breaking down, crashing, and falling down cliff faces. I figured it was still going so bound to be fine enough and slept a while on the glorious sofas outside under that massive tree. Oh my gosh it was wonderful. I then waited with my new friend beside the dirt track running through the village at 2am for the truck to turn up. It did so around 2:30, beeping its way along the road (which would SEVERELY piss me off if I lived there, it was so loud). I was both pleasantly and unpleasantly surprised by this truck trip. Pleasantly so due to there only being 10 of us on the back of this open truck when I'd been forewarned it could get seriously busy. It also did not rain, was a fairly mild night and the truck neither broke down nor crashed. Unpleasantly so however due to the road being INSANE. 3 hours of ass-hitting-a-wooden-box/floor-of-truck on a ridiculously bumpy road like none I've ever (and hope I never again) experienced before. I've been on bumpy roads, trust me, but this was extreme. The locals somehow managed to sleep... I have absolutely no idea how. I also feared for my life at points. The truck goes up and up and up into the hills away from Usisya beach, which I can imagine being an absolutely stunning view during daylight, then winds its way through the valleys and local villages for the majority of the journey before the last 15minutes when you're on the "main" road. These dirt tracks are not made for an open topped truck of this size and Africans sure do like to drive fast.

Kande beach at night with a storm brewing

Upon arriving in Mzuzu I got the first matatu to Nkhata Bay as it's only an hour away and enjoyed the company at Butterfly Space for a further 2/3 nights. Once again I've written stacks of things that happened in Nkhata Bay but it's all to do with the delightful wonders I met there. Once again, thank you <3

In my own diary words, "here's where it all goes a bit pear shaped". My new bank card was supposedly waiting in Mzuzu (hurrah!) at the Standard Bank and as a last minute Malawi getaway myself, 4 American beauties and a Welsh Gareth went to Kande beach for party times. It ended up being more so the ultimate relaxation on the gorgeous beach in our gorgeous 6 person banda. Kande is reknown for being an overlanders beach and so many who visit Nkhata Bay and want to see 'the real Malawi' scorn it. But it's an overlanders site for a reason because it's so incredibly beautiful. We played frisbee, swam in the perfectly clear waters to islands far further away than first anticipated, dined with the locals in their home... it's the stuff dreams are made of when you dream of paradise. It was a perfect way to say goodbye to some of the best people I've ever met.

Except, I saw them again about a day later every day for about a month...