Livingstone and the mighty Victoria Falls

Firstly, nothing I say in this post will live up to my time spent in Livingstone. Secondly, it is for this reason alone that you should go and see Victoria Falls for yourself. Thirdly, if that doesn't tempt you, this picture should;

That's me just chilling on Victoria falls during dry season. When it rains there'll be 500 million litres of water pouring over that very spot every minute. And you could look far more attractive if you wanted to than the current model with her eyes closed and slicked back hair.

Starting from leaving Kasanka, we all (including the peacecore troops) left the park early in the morning to try and hitch hike to Lusaka. One of our team managed it, the other 6 were stuck. Luckily the peacecorers had ordered some taxis so we sqeeeeezed all of us and our luggage in a 4/5seater and drove to the nearest bus station, about 30km away. I'm pretty sure this is the only taxi I picked up during my time in Africa and it could be that this journey put me off for life. An uncomfortable hour of sitting half on a seat half on the taxi floor with my legs, arms and butt crushed. Luckily I was not alone in my pain as I was sharing my personal space with Tess who was in exactly the same predicament! I'm pretty sure everyone in that taxi was excited to get out of it as soon as they got in!

We then paid an extortionate amount for a minibus heading to Lusaka and when we finally got there (after stopping just about everywhere, including the roadside to pick up some rather exotic looking mushrooms) we were still taken to the wrong bus station. A kind local with a bus took pity on us and gave us a lift to our destination where we fought tooth and nail to get overnight bus tickets to Livingstone without paying the ridiculous (and entirely made-up-out-of-thin-air

tourist fee) bag charge. An hour later, WE WERE ON OUR WAY! It was a hastle of a day, 19hours of journeying and a suspension free bus journey BUT so worth it to rock up to Livingstone around 3am and have a kip on the bus before heading to a hostel.


We stayed at Livingstone Backpackers over the more popular Jollyboys. I think it was a bit cheaper. Both are lovely but we had a blast at Livingstone with its beach-esque bar, open plan kitchen, swimming pool and funky decor. The town again was more western than anything in Malawi but more African than Lusaka; the perfect mix for an easy backpacking life. The towns 9km away from the Zambia-Zimbabwe border and Vic Falls so you have to get a minibus for about 5 minutes before walking a few hundred yards to the main attraction. For some reason we didn't do this on our very first day! I'm pretty sure we were exhausted and wanted to see what we could do and get for our money. The backpackers all offer trips, guides, activities etc but they are expensive and you can go to a local for a better price! So our first

trip to the Falls was via The Royal Livingstone Hotel where we sat like kings and queens on the terrace overlooking the mighty Zambezi river in all its Hippo ridden glory, drinking cocktails and staring at Zebras until the sun started to set. Safe to say, this hotel is gorgeous. It has Zebras in the grounds for gods sake! Absolute love!!

A short walk along the river and we were at the Falls entrance. Could not see a thing. It's obviously built that way so you have to pay the entrance fee.I'm not entirely sure what that is as we didn't go in that day and when we did it was with a guide who managed to sneak us past the pay desk (entirely possible if you use local guides and kick up a fuss about the price. Both you and they know it's ridiculously extortionate). Instead we walked across the border from Zambia-Zimbabwe. The border is a bridge over The Zambezi River where the bungee jump is. That looked terrifyingly unsafe. Needless to say, I did not rise up the challenge. My friend Zoe did though and she said it was AMAZING. The bridge gave crazy beautiful views of the gorge where people white water

raft and you are constantly surrounded by baboons! These monkeys are NOT afraid of you, they are terrifyingly big and will not hesitate to jump you for some food! In my diary I start by saying how "super cute" the baboons are with "tiny baby baboons riding on the backs of the bigger ones, and these monkeys were HUGE, mighty things! So much monkey love today!". By the end of my stay in Livingstone I'm writing "oh. my. god. Them sodding monkeys! They so big and scary! I couldn't take food across the border due to pure FEAR!! So I let Chris do it instead.".

After a quick Go Pro parachute test over the bridge (a Chris invention to get the best footage at Devils Pool when he throws the camera off Vic Falls) and we were back in the backpackers where I found fellow Malawi friends from Nkhata Bay! One of the best things about travelling Africa; there is a solid backpacking route which everyone follows, but 'everyone' still isn't that many people! Tourists are not in abundance but friends throughout your trip are <3

walking over the river

Jumping over rocks

The next few days are more than incredible. They are quite definitely in my lifes top 10 of  incredibleness. Outside the Victoria Falls entrance and thousands of curio shops my American friends and I searched for a local guide who would take us to Devils Pool for a discount. Before I go any further, read about what Devils Pool is here; because it's awesome (the pool, NOT the video on that website. That's crap).

swimming across the river!

We found Herald who took us on a riverbed walk alongside the falls to Livingstone Island (Zambians are extremely inventive when it comes to naming things). We were actually walking ON, OVER AND IN the Zambezi! After this short jaunt just chilling on rocks with our legs dangling over the falls, we arrived at the tiny island where we were instructed to get in our swimming gear so we could swim the short distance to the Main Waterfall and pool. So we stripped off and jumped INTO the Zambezi for a swim. No biggy,
just swimming in this massive river RIGHT NEXT TO the biggest waterfall in the world. Scrambling up some rocks we had a small sit before Herald jumped right on into the pool, roughly a metre away from the edge of the falls. We all followed a little more cautiously sliding into this incredible pool before sitting on a ledge just half a metre or so away from the waterfall. Words aren't doing this any justice.

Sliding into the pool

Sitting in the pool

Just chillin over the largest waterfall in the world.

We was told to lean over the edge of the falls whilst a guide held our ankles. It doesn't look like much in that photo but MY GOD. My entire torso was over the waterfall and I did indeed scream like a girl, proudly. We all did this twice. And would've stayed for longer if a family of about 30 weren't starting to queue behind us.

A walk back along the riverbed (still can't quite believe how cool that is) and we were left to wander the park at our own leisure. We saw the falls in all their full rain glory (in photo form) and were able to walk over bridges and onto plinths to see the different waterfalls that make up the larger falls (I believe there are 10-12 in all...).

The next day came as something of a surprise. I decided to jump on board (literally) with a few of our group going white water rafting. They'd all done it before, I hadn't, I was cacking my pants (literally) and it was awesome. Note to everyone, prices can be cut by serious bargaining (excellent work Tess and Gonzalo). It's a full day thing so we were in the water by 8:30am after the shortest safety briefing EVER where we were told to paddle and hold on when told. Safety procedures and Africa just don't mix. Thats what makes it so much more exciting! After a quick swim in a large pool under Vic Falls, next to the first rapid 25m away, we got in the raft to kick some ass. I had NO IDEA what I was doing and paddled far too little but held on a lot. I cannot stress how much fun this was! I've described the experience as being "1) awesome, 2.) painful, 3.) incredible, 4.) dangerous. I've not laughed so hard in a long time". We all fell out and overturned our raft twice, once I got a nosebleed and at one point we had to evacuate the river as a rapid was too extreme! Lunch and snacks are included and the general experience was incredible. We jumped off rocks, swam through rapids, got sucked under the water, drifted along the at times serene river, and all the time were filmed by a crew. We paid extra for these photos and film. It was just too good. More than once we saw crocs/allies in the river that we were SWIMMING IN! The guides paid absolutely no attention and just didn't see any danger, it was fabulous!

Our guides legs, falling in, the only one at first!

Overturning raft!!

TEAM!

The moment our anchor let us down...!

These were by far the FUNNIEST photos! This guy knew where those cameras would be!

Just tried to upload the video but it says I can't.... ALL THE SAME, amazing. Thank you Livingstone, thank you Victoria Falls. I wont be forgetting you anytime soon. Ever.

Upon entering Zambia...

Credit for most of the photos from here on until I leave South Africa definitely go to Mr Christopher Pitcher, whose website you can see here :) He's done a whole lotta travelling, has a whole lotta projects under his belt and is an incredible photographer so I recommend just checking him out!

Starting where I finished in my last post, what happened was my card, which was 'definitely in Mzuzu' according to UK card services, was actually not. More like it was still in England with no hope of ever getting to Africa as "UK card services don't post to PO BOX addresses". Well.. good luck ever posting to Africa EVER then! A minibus journey with the door falling off, 3 milkshakes, a severely pissed off Izzi and a phone-call later, I had decided to go to Zambia, Zimbabwe and South Africa with my new found American friends from Nkhata Bay. So I was going exactly the opposite way that I was meant to be.

Mzuzu is a standard Malawi town. Lilongwe is a larger one. Neither have much in the way of stuff to do and see and do. The small north province of Malawi served me well as I met by chance with 2 fellow travellers before leaving Mzuzu and another from Nkhata Bay on the bus to Lilongwe. The bus was PACKED. It was the first proper bus I had travelled on since arriving in Africa and there is very little difference in the way of space, comfort, safety in comparison to the tiny minibuses that go everywhere. We only stopped about 3 times; once to let passengers on and off, another to check what the loud bang was at the back of the bus, a third half an hour later to change the tyre which had blown out and shredded. My last moments in Malawi were spent in a bog-standard city type backpackers in the midst of a thunderstorm. I don't care, I have nothing but fond memories and would encourage anyone whose even slightly considering going there to just go. Now.

GO!

Anyway

Zambia

Westernised shopping mall

A country of animals and safari. We got the bus from Lilongwe to Lusaka at 5am which took roughly 13 hours. I was talking to someone about getting a bus to Plymouth the other day which takes 6 hours and they grimaced. I'd very much just like to clarify that 13 hours on a bus really isn't that bad! All you do is sit, and relax, and sit, and not do anything, listen to music, read, do suduku, sit; whats so bad about that! Especially if you're on a night bus. I've heard the worst things about night buses and yet never experienced anything but a wonderful, albeit sometimes interrupted, very cheap nights sleep. All the same, the journey was glorious zooming away on fully tarmacked roads through stunning countryside over the Malawi/Zambia border (extremely fast and easy), over the mighty Zambezi river, past tiny huts made of mud and straw, and huge herds of cattle. Unsurprisingly Zambia looks a whole lot like Malawi. Until you get to Lusaka.

Lusaka is Westernised. The city has things one can only dream of in Africa such as street lights, shops you can walk into and working traffic lights. Not only that but there are huge shopping malls, the kind I've only before seen on American TV programs. There was a proper cinema, real supermarkets and restaurants that require real customer service, people wore clothes which showed both shoulders AND knees; I almost went into cardiac arrest! The backpackers we stayed at had a swimming pool and everything! For $10 a night I certainly expected one, Zambia is far more expensive than Malawi where you can get a bed for less than £3. And just a warning for anyone travelling in the same direction as I; Malawian Kwacha is a CLOSED CURRENCY. It cannot be changed anywhere apart from in Malawi, and the border gives shite rates.

The first thing we did in Zambia (apart from exploring Lusaka) was to go to Eureka Camp, 13km outside of the city centre. This is a camp WITHIN a small wildlife sanctuary. You can get within one metre of zebras, Buffalo and gazelle (depending how stealthy you are) and see giraffes from at least 5 metres away. Absolutely incredible. This was my first sighting of Safari animals and I was far too excited and went absolutely rogue. I spent hours upon hours walking around the tiny park hunting wildlife and just doing nothing with them. You sit, they sit. Amazing. There's also a dog which is slightly disabled and the cutest thing ever. Pretty sure I'd have been happy with just the dog let alone all the other wildlife.





The camp itself is gorgeous. Huge grounds for overlanders, small bandas and a dorm for those wanting cheap (although they aren't actually very cheap at all) and larger bandas for groups. We managed to squeeze 5 of us in a 3 bed; thrifty. Theres a swimming pool, a bar, self catering kitchen, volleyball court, BBQ areas, TV room, pool playing area AND functional flush toilets. And real showers. It's backpackers/overlanders paradise once again in Africa! What makes it THAT much better though is locals are more than welcome too. Not like the local beach boys in Malawi but local families who can afford the luxury.

Giraffe at sunset

Our next stop in Zambia was to Kasanka Trust National Park to watch the largest bat migration in the world, also the second largest migration of any mammal.

Whilst in Lusaka Backpackers we'd not only met a couple The Americans knew from previous countries travelled but also a lovely South African chap called Bastian who convinced us to go to his workplace to see this epic spectacle. This is the only park in Africa (I believe) to hold the elusive Sitatunga, a species of antelope (this is all by memory. The website offers far more information!).

Camping out next to the park entrance

Our new group of 7 people left Lusaka at 3pm and bussed it through the country to parks entrance which we arrived at around midnight. Of course the park is closed at this time so after a scramble out the VERY FULL bus with all of our food and camping gear ready for 4 nights, we set up camp outside the park gate beside the road. We all woke relatively early and waited for Bastian at the park entrance when about 8-10 peacecore volunteers rocked on up. They were join us on the tour. The more the merrier! We all had a sit in the glorious sunshine until Bastian showed up around 11am to drive us into the park to the campsite area in opentopped 4x4s.

We considered driving through the park to be akin to a disneyland ride (much to American Bens utter disgust). Branches hung low which you had to either duck or be slapped by, the road was actually a

Kasanka waterboys

dirt track which was bump-bump-bumpy, and after a wonderful pizza lunch beside some hippos the heavens full on opened as we drove through the plains. Everyone and thing looked like they'd just stepped out of a fully-clothed shower they'd taken with their bags on upon arrival at camp. I'm talking about some SERIOUS rain storm! Thunder and lightning; the whole works. Camp was a space of flat ground under some trees with a small veranda, bucket shower at the ready and actual flush toilet! That afternoon we were treated to a short walk along the river and wetlands (in the rainy season the river must be at least a mile across!) The park is gorgeous, full of various species of antelope and beautiful birds. Bastian knew all of them and was a fabulous guide. That night was our first taster of the bat viewing as we watched millions of bats pass over our heads bit by bit.

The next day, after another EPIC night-time storm, we woke
at around 4/5am to go for a morning safari. The sun rise was a brilliant orange over the plains and the park full of morning fog. It was wonderful to be away from city life somewhere so ultimately tranquil. The safari was a walking one around the forest, river and marshy areas. We saw MASSIVE angry hippos lazing about and huge groups of various antelope on the plains. Kasanka isn't about checking off the Big 5, neither is it too big on other animals like giraffes, zebras etc; it's the bats that make it famous. But I think it is a fabulous park. The landscapes are versatile and the tourists are almost non-existent except for yourself. No queues here looking for a lion. That morning we also climbed an extremely dodgey looking ladder up a huge tree to overlook the wetlands and plains. The views are nothing short of incredible and the experience of getting up and down a tad nervy.

That evening it was real-time-bat-time and we went back to the tree ladder (but not up it) to see the bats rise from their nesting places ready to eat their fruit (which tastes horrific. Instant hangover dry mouth when juice touches tongue). It was nothing short of... wow. They look tiny from the ground but they actually have roughly a metre wide wingspan. The sun glowed orange as it set and the bats took flight in their millions. We all took photo after photo after photo until we realised photos couldn't possibly do this any justice so we best sit and enjoy the spectacle. And what a spectacle.

It really was just incredible.

The drive home was just as exciting ducking and diving branches in the dark, seeing all sorts of animals from jackals to elephant shrews to hippos running with their children (incredibly fast and incredibly cute). Our second to last evening in the park we were treated to a wonderful BBQ and slept like babies after a long, fabulous day. Similarly, our last day in the park we were treated to a

wonderful safari drive as a new group had turned up to join us. There were now so many of us 3 had to stand in the open topped 4x4s and duck even more so as to not be hit by the low hanging branches! Now it really WAS a disneyland ride and it was great fun! Not much was to be seen that afternoon in terms of animals apart from a lazy croc and a bunch of antelope, but the landscape of Kasanka is just beautiful and the weather was equally so.

The last evening came far too fast for my liking and we were off for our last bat viewing, this time at a different place in the park; a lot closer. All 30+ of us crashed through the undergrowth to get to the viewing point, the poor bats must've been scared shitless as they went a bit wild just as we arrived. It was incredible. I know I've used that word alot but there are just SO MANY OF THEM! We were so close this time they flew right over our heads a little closer to the ground, again at sunset. There were 3 viewing points all of which pointed at the bats tree homes and all of which gave fantastic views of the mammals rising out in their millions. I cannot stress enough how amazing this is and how it's well worth the trip. SO MUCH cheaper than any other safari option, so much more off the beaten tourist track and such an incredible guide and team. 

There was a definite feeling of "wow, this is a once in a lifetime thing to see".

Ruarwe, Usisiya, Kande and Tanzan.... Zambia!

All over Nkhata Bay are A4 sheets of paper telling tourists to go to the Zulunkhini River Lodge in Ruarwe. Not many seem to do so as the only way to get there is via boat, either the Ilala Monday mornings or a commuter boat that takes 9 (if your lucky) hours. This boat is a lot like a far smaller version of the Ilala with it being crammed full of people and STUFF. A bit like this: To the right we have a classic example of suitcases, boxes, bags, crates, everything you can think of under the sun, being crammed into a tiny boat full of (as you can see above/on the left) people! I left Nkhata Bay with a fellow from Chicago named Chris and we were lucky enough to sit right where a sofa was so had a fairly pleasant journey. Chris is also gadget man so he wapped out the laptop and we watched a film, something which the locals LOVED! (Do not judge us until you have had to spend 9 hours on a tiny boat. There's only so much coastline watching one can do without distraction.) I had been told under no circumstances to get this boat as it was long and boring and prone to breaking down, but I thought it was delightful! It stopped at the lakeshore beside gorgeous, untouched-by- tourism beaches with a welcome party greeting the boat each time. It was exactly how all the locals travelled to and from Nkhata Bay; their only nearby town around for HOURS. 

The moon rising is spectacular in Malawi, particularly on a boat rising over the lake. It blazes in all it's full blown moon-like glory and lights up the land and sky so there's no need for torches. We were extremely lucky to have gone to Ruarwe on a weekend when the moon was full. Every night it rose over the lake shining straight onto the private beach and into the open plan restaurant; there is very little in the world which is as impressive.

Upon arriving at Zulunkhuni River Lodge (which as stated above has it's own tiny, pristine spot of sand that the boat docks on) we were greeted by the owned; Charlie. Charlie is awesome. Your experience at this lodge WILL be enhanced by this man alone. He knows how to run a top-notch lodge, he knows the land surrounding his property and how to climb up the waterfall, which places are good for rock jumping, how to walk to the next villages along. All of his staff are from the local village of Ruarwe so give excellent advice and are supremely friendly. For example, as soon as we were off the beach (a 5 second jaunt up some steps) we were offered some incredible rice and chicken to eat. Charlie knows that 9 hours on a boat with just some bread and honey does not cut it. 

The lodge itself is nothing short of mindblowing. There are various bandas and huts on the cliff top overlooking the lake and a massive dorm room which is extremely bright and spacious. The prices are more than you'd find on the normal backpackers route but IT'S JUST SO WORTH IT!! Chris and I shared a massive hut with room for 3 which had the most incredible view of the beach below, waterfalls to the left and village across the water. This isn't just a beach flopping paradise though, there's plenty to do and see. local village walks, long hikes in the hills, waterfall climbing, rock jumping, renting a canoe, volunteering, and so many more which I can't remember. The point is; if you're going to Malawi make sure you come here.

We loved the sound of the waterfall climbing so Charlie took us up the river which runs directly beside the lodge (hence it's name). You need Charlie to guide you as the climb is impossible otherwise. You scramble through tiny holes, cling onto branches, and climb up vertical rock faces (no joke) to get to a larger waterfall at the top. Along the way you jump, dive and slide all over having as much fun as possible, which I definitely did! It was amazing! This escapade can last as long as you want it to (or as long as Charlies free for) and is so worth it. The dog comes too, a great big, lopey dog which runs, swims and climbs along with you! I have far too much love for this place.

The next day with Chris gone I walked to the village of Ruarwe and another fishing village to the right of the lodge. They are extremely tranquil and lovely. Everyone is in awe of the white person and

children don't know whether to run to you to play or be frightened! After a couplea days I knew I had to move on; another Western Union awaited and I had to go upland to Tanzania at some point (however much I didn't want to). I could've waited a day and got the commuter boat again but I had an urge to go to Usisya which was said to be just as beautiful and untouched. I had a strange feeling I had a friend there also who I kept bumping into multiple times during my stay in Malawi. The only way to get there was a 6hour hike or a 3 hour canoe ride. I opted for a canoe ride as I just WANTED one!! It was sweltering and the poor man rowed and rowed for 3 whole hours until we reached Usisya beach; a huge stretch of sand with huts right up the edge. It is the epiphany of a gorgeous beach.The canoe ride was nothing short of wonderful, with stunning shoreline views and the occasional water bucket collection to stop my feet and bag getting wet (of course the boat leaks, this is Malawi).

Usisya Lodge isn't actually open yet, it's still in the process of
being built, BUT it does cater to campers. What is there of the lodge thus far looks impressive and all the locals crowd around to relax with you and just hang out. There's the most incredible, MASSIVE tree in the middle of the beach within the lodge grounds that you sit under and can play pool/beer pong. Of course my faithful friend Graham was there and we had a wild time with the kids in the lake and some rubber ring floaty things; the children LOVE these and they love it even more when you pinch one off them and they have to chase you around in the water! Usisya village is probably the friendliest I have ever come across, and that really is saying something. EVERYONE from the local carpenter making doors on the beach to the priest walking to the water to pray to the elderly ladies sitting beneath a tree making porridge wanted to talk to me. I must've walked about a kilometre (if that) in 2 hours I was stopped so many times! What lovely, wonderful people.

This picture has been stolen from another blog as its the only
one I can find of the truck! Here's the link :)

I knew a lot of my friends in Nkhata Bay were due to leave soon, that and I had 0 camping gear, so I decided to set off from Usisya with one of the workers at the 'lodge' on a truck which left at 2am. Like the boat on the way up I was told DO NOT under ANY CIRCUMSTANCES get this truck as it's notorious for breaking down, crashing, and falling down cliff faces. I figured it was still going so bound to be fine enough and slept a while on the glorious sofas outside under that massive tree. Oh my gosh it was wonderful. I then waited with my new friend beside the dirt track running through the village at 2am for the truck to turn up. It did so around 2:30, beeping its way along the road (which would SEVERELY piss me off if I lived there, it was so loud). I was both pleasantly and unpleasantly surprised by this truck trip. Pleasantly so due to there only being 10 of us on the back of this open truck when I'd been forewarned it could get seriously busy. It also did not rain, was a fairly mild night and the truck neither broke down nor crashed. Unpleasantly so however due to the road being INSANE. 3 hours of ass-hitting-a-wooden-box/floor-of-truck on a ridiculously bumpy road like none I've ever (and hope I never again) experienced before. I've been on bumpy roads, trust me, but this was extreme. The locals somehow managed to sleep... I have absolutely no idea how. I also feared for my life at points. The truck goes up and up and up into the hills away from Usisya beach, which I can imagine being an absolutely stunning view during daylight, then winds its way through the valleys and local villages for the majority of the journey before the last 15minutes when you're on the "main" road. These dirt tracks are not made for an open topped truck of this size and Africans sure do like to drive fast.

Kande beach at night with a storm brewing

Upon arriving in Mzuzu I got the first matatu to Nkhata Bay as it's only an hour away and enjoyed the company at Butterfly Space for a further 2/3 nights. Once again I've written stacks of things that happened in Nkhata Bay but it's all to do with the delightful wonders I met there. Once again, thank you <3

In my own diary words, "here's where it all goes a bit pear shaped". My new bank card was supposedly waiting in Mzuzu (hurrah!) at the Standard Bank and as a last minute Malawi getaway myself, 4 American beauties and a Welsh Gareth went to Kande beach for party times. It ended up being more so the ultimate relaxation on the gorgeous beach in our gorgeous 6 person banda. Kande is reknown for being an overlanders beach and so many who visit Nkhata Bay and want to see 'the real Malawi' scorn it. But it's an overlanders site for a reason because it's so incredibly beautiful. We played frisbee, swam in the perfectly clear waters to islands far further away than first anticipated, dined with the locals in their home... it's the stuff dreams are made of when you dream of paradise. It was a perfect way to say goodbye to some of the best people I've ever met.

Except, I saw them again about a day later every day for about a month...

Nkhata Bay

By some strange force of nature I ended up staying in the Nkhata Bay area for about 2 weeks. It's not only a great base to explore from with a day pack whilst leaving your huge rucksack behind, but the small town also has a fabulous village-esque feel whilst being entirely touristy. 2 main backpacking sights are the reason for this; Mayoka Village and Butterfly Space. I stayed at Butterfly as it's marginally cheaper than Mayoka (and by marginally I mean literally 50p to a pounds worth per night). They are right next to each other and everyone at Mayoka knows everyone at Butterfly and vice versa so it doesn't really matter where you stay. http://www.butterflyspacemalawi.com/

Butterfly Space signage

I arrived in Nkhata Bay with my malaria infected, and seriously grumpy, friend Greg around midnight. We followed signs up a hill (which is slightly hideous and scary at that time of night on a Sunday) then back down a bit until we reached Butterfly. The place didn't look all too thrilling at first in the darkness but when the morning came you saw Butterfly in all its glory. Eco compost loos that look out onto the ocean, an elevated dorm room, a small secluded beach, a sun-catching jetty, palm trees everywhere, a small gorgeous bar, a herb garden, and restaurant/common area/self-catering kitchen. Theres a tree maze, an internet block, youth club, volunteering projects and 'gangsters paradise'. It;s a minature backpackers land!

What makes Butterfly Space and Nkhata Bay so special though is the slow-down-until-you've-stopped-and-are-lying-down relaxed atmosphere. I felt at ease to walk into the kitchen and use appliances alongside the chefs (who are lovely), bathe in the lake (for an actual bath... it's sometimes warmer than the showers), and we all bought our own booze for quiz nights as it's cheaper than buying from the bar. Countless times I left my bags in the dorm room and didn't pay for a bed whilst travelling about for 4 days at a time - it's just the ultimate atmosphere you want to be in on holiday.

Cute Nkhata Bay local restaurant

Nkhata Bay itself sways to the rhythm of the palm trees and the lake, an almost Caribbean vibe (much like Cape Maclear) but far more 'real malawi'. It's got everything you could want (except a definitely-going-to-work bank and shampoo). There are various markets throughout the week, fabric shops, curios, the luxury of a proper supermarket, beautiful local restaurants for local and international food, a diving centre, Internet cafes galore.... no wonder people get stuck there!!

I planned to stay only a few days before heading to Ruarwe, Livingstonia and then Tanzania. Unfortunately things entirely out of my control occurred putting an end to that particular plan of action, firstly my purse got stolen with all my money and cards in it. Secondly, the people stayed at Butterfly Space were to become some fabulous new friends and the best of my trip. Onto the first, purse stealage. It wasn't anyones fault but my own as I left my bag wide open at the fish market whilst taking a photo of fish. This is the photo --------------------------------> It's not even worth it. Anyway, Greg stayed an extra day showing me to Western Union (life saver) and then all was well again after a gazillion beers and a game of pool on a table which, rightly according to Greg, was 'more crooked than the leaning tower of pisa'. Just a small tip for future travellers to Malawi; if anything ever gets stolen, DON'T GO TO THE POLICE. I thought it'd be good to inform them just in case the purse was handed in (I hadn't been in Africa for long, give me a break) and I was popped in a delightful cagey-like room where the walls were pasted with Malawis' most wanted. If there's one way to freak you out about a country it's that!

Chikale Beach

ANYWAY! I decided to stay in Nkhata Bay a few days not doing altogether too much after the purse fiasco as, afterall, I WAS on holiday. Although Butterfly has it's own private beach it's a tad rocky for just a quick dip so I walked the 10minutes away from town to Chikale Beach. Perfection. A small, entirely sandy beach with thatched umbrellas for shade and a small bar to grab a drink from. Bliss. There is also another beach by Butterfly that none of the tourists really go to as it's also rocky and full of local kids, but I LOVED. The reason for this being that I met two fabulous local lads who played guitar! They were amazing! They sat on the rocks by the sea jamming until sundown, banging out tunes and verses on the spot, encouraging me to join in.

A hop, skip, scramble over some rocks and you're at a local beach

Onto the second, more fun reason, as to why I stayed in Nkhata Bay, you soon begin to realise every white settler in the central and north province know eachother, and they are all wonderful. All the owners of lodges and backpackers, restaurants and bars, they all know eachother and meet up for drinks etc regularly. If you're backpacking around Malawi for more than two weeks you will ultimately end up knowing all these people and LOVING them. Similarly with the locals; there are tons of beach boys, tailors, curio sellers and washer women in Nkhata Bay who know your name after a measly 3 or 4 days of being there. They always say hello and always want to play a "quick" game of Bawo or have a "quick" drink with you.

Butterfly's beach

There was also a very, very special set of people I met at Butterfly Space. I've just sat here and written all their names but there are simply too many! They know who they are, those people I went for long village walks with, the ones whose beds I jumped on, the ones who made me cry with laughter, the ones who watched sunrises with me and went on fantastically dodgey nights out. The ones I met only at Butterfly and the others I kept meeting time, and time again throughout my journey in Malawi and further afield. You guys gave me the bestest memories of my trip and I am forever thankful you amazing, crazy, mad, incredible people.

A local tailor hemming my kitenge

If I wasn't writing this 7 months down the line I'd probably be telling you all about that time I watched the sunrise whilst swimming in the lake and the dog stole my shoe, or when Steve wrote a quiz that Zoe and I were abysmal at and yet still managed to come 4th, or the countless nights out in Mayoka and town where we ate like kings at the buffet and drank like champions before being gyrated on by small boys in the local bar. In fact, just flicking through my diary I have so many stories about Nkhata Bay I'm pretty sure I could write a blog dedicated just to that small town!

But I wont. I'll move onto Ruarwe and Kandy.

Journeying on the Ilala

Note: 

This post contains a lot of photos of incredible sunsets/rises that will make you want to go on holiday immediately, predominantly to Malawi (something I would highly recommend doing asap).

The Ilala. http://www.malawitourism.com/pages/news/index.asp?NewsID=316. 

The easiest and quickest way to get up the country via the lake shore. She has 4 classes of travel; economy, second, first and cabin. Economy is fine enough for short journeys, just a bunch of plastic seats on the bottom floor full of people and STUFF. Like fish and chickens and furniture and booze and just loads and loads of STUFF. Second class is less full of this stuff and more full of people having a nap on the equally as uncomfortable benches. First class you have access to the small (and quite expensive by Malawi standards) restaurant, bar and top deck, and cabin you have your own small cabin area. Cabin class is ridiculously expensive and just not worth it. First class is the way to go (which is what I did).

I travelled on the Ilala from Monkey Bay where it departs at 10am Saturday mornings, (or did 7 months ago, don't quote me on that), to Nkhata Bay, where it arrives around 11pm Sunday evening. 

Lets start with Monkey Bay; gem of a place. Gorgeous backpackers right on the water called Mufasa, a bit more expensive than the usual as there are no dorm rooms, but it really is just STUNNING. You have your own private beach area, can cook your own food and camp if you want, the decor is really funky and welcoming, and the small town of Monkey Bay is fine enough for supplies (NOT doctors. The doctors is a small hut, you do not want Malaria here!). If I had more time I would've stayed a while longer.

There are hammocks on the beach and seats so high off the ground hung on trees you have to jump in them and can kick off the trunk to swing. Easy-to-climb rocks right next to the beach, a small mountain behind the town to explore, tiny fishermen boats floating at night with their lanterns - ahhhhhh it's my kinda place. So, so beautiful.

Monkey Bay sunset over the mountains of Cape Maclear

So, on the Ilala I went Saturday morning with my Malaria infected pal Greg (hence the knowledge of Monkey Bay clinics... don't go there). First class tickets to Nkhata Bay bought, up to top deck we climbed, and we are rewarded with a departing view of ladies washing their clothes by the lakeshore, naked children playing in the water, and a bunch of brightly coloured boats bobbing up and down with the most obscure names! 'Road Hell 2", "Jesus is my lover" and "bitches be crazy for my boat" to name just a few. The Ilala is not a grand boat. In fact, in my diary I've referred to it as "a bit of a dive". It's not a boat specifically made for tourists, it's a commuter boat; an easier way of getting goods from one end of the lake to the other, specifically to Likoma Island.

The only beds on the Ilala are in the cabins, everyone else sleeps on seats, the floor, or anything they can find space on. A whole lotta locals slept on huge bags of tiny fish being transported to Nkhata Bay which stank. A lot. Luckily for me first class is 2 decks above these

Greg helping Graham erect his bed for the night

stinky beasts. First class held a bar and restaurant, which you have no choice but to eat in unless you bring enough snacks and food that do not need cooking and will last your entire trip. In saying that, it was still only about £2 for a dish and they were amazing. Good cheffing from the Ilala kitchen team. You are also okay to bring your own drink on board, but in first class there are some points during the day when it's unbearably hot, meaning the shaded areas are taken over by bodies, not bags, so your drinks will be a bit nasty by the time you get round to drinking them all.

My bed for the night. Sleeping on the crate didn't last
long, it's much for comfortable on the floor (which
has to be saying something!)

As you can see by this photo, my bed was my soon-to-be Kilimanjaro sleeping bag and liner with a kitenge** acting as a pillow. The floor was a lot comfier than the crate and I had a surprising good night, made all the better by the thousands of stars above me.

Getting off the Ilala, casual bucket being passed
over everyones heads

There are 2 main reasons to love a journey on the Ilala, the first being the destination stops. At each stop passengers are allowed to disembark and chill out on the mainland until the REALLY LOUD horn blows to signal the Ilala is ready to leave. You are transported from the boat to land via small wooden lifeboats. This is a slightly traumatic experience and yet incredibly fun. There is no such thing as queueing in Malawi so you have to push to get on the lifeboat. This is a tad precarious given they are already lowered into the water and you climb down a vertical ladder to get to them, so a shove could send you flying over the edge. The Ilala is not disabled friendly in the slightest. The 'lifeboats' are filled STUFF, before being filled with more STUFF and someones baby and a few chickens and a bag of fish. They can then, and only then, when they are overfilled to the point of insanity, move slowly towards the shore where a mass congregation of people are waiting to claim their fair share of the stuff. Of course there are no actual docks in Malawi (apart from at Monkey Bay which is pure luxury) and so you have to wade a fair bit upon getting off the lifeboat (which is actually wonderful given your so squashed a few seconds before). Wading is particularly hard with a large rucksack on and yet extremely fulfilling when you manage to get onto dry land without getting your main bag AND day sack wet. This was particularly hard at Nkhata Bay at 11pm at night.

I explored Likoma Island a little with another traveller; it is gorgeous. There's not altogether too much to do considering it's an island with one village, but it's perfect for the ultimate relaxing, honeymoon-esque beachy time.

Now, onto why I REALLY love the Ilala.

Sun setting over Likoma Island

A sun fully risen over Mozambique and sun setting in a storm

Sunrise. No picture edits. No filters, no nothing. This is actually how it is.

The sun in Africa is incredible. I have a real thing for sunsets and rises and was rewarded to the extreme during my time in Malawi particularly. They are so full and so amazingly beautiful! Obviously travelling on the Ilala during the dry season helps a lot with the 'capturing-the-gorgeous-sunset' stuff, but I'm pretty sure you'd get incredible photos whatever the time of year. Although sleeping in first class in the rain would suck...






Right, I'm pretty sure not everyone cares about my sunset addiction so enough twaddle about the sun; I'm now in Nkhata Bay. Time to let everyone know why this really is the best spot for backpackers on the lake.



** A kitenge is a brightly coloured wrap-around  African material ladies get tailored into skirts, tops, trousers, hats, bags, and anything you can possibly think of. Kitenges' are the main dress for women and look absolutely fabulous. There are so many different patterns to choose from and ways to wear it, it'd be a miracle to find someone wearing the same kitenge as you!